Introduction
Before insulating a loft or converting a loft, keep the following points in mind to choose how and what you use to insulate a loft. It will assist you in better understanding the finish you are aiming for, especially if you are considering a loft conversion. In any case, every project in the loft should aim to improve the overall energy efficiency of the property. If you wish to insulate a ceiling or a roof, you must first decide whether you want a warm or chilly roof. A warm roof is one that contains insulation in the loft walls and floor, which insulates the loft space. A cold roof is one with insulation just on the loft level, insulating the space below but leaving the loft space uninsulated. Whether you want a warm or chilly roof is usually determined by whether or not you intend to use the loft area.
Are you going to use your loft as further living space?
You don't want to raise the floor too much because this will reduce the amount of headroom available in the room. Adding too much floor height, especially on pitched roofs, might result in less usable floor space since regions closer to the eaves do not have enough head height to allow a person to stand up. To add that all-important energy efficiency, consider thin floor insulation options as well as insulating the ceiling in the rooms below.
Is Your Loft Strictly Storage Only?
Many lofts in the United Kingdom are used to store common objects such as Christmas decorations, extra chairs, and knick-knacks that people don't want to throw away. If you wish to insulate your loft to improve your home's energy efficiency yet use it for storage, you should consider covering the insulation. This is especially critical if the insulation is mineral wool or glass wool roll or slab, as moving in and out of the loft might disturb the insulation fibers, which can cause irritation to the skin, throat, and eyes.
To finish off the setup and maximize the utility and length of time you can spend in the vacant loft space, cover the insulation with affordable and thin plywood or OSB board.
What materials do I need to insulate a loft?
Most types of insulation, including insulation board, insulation roll, and insulation slab, can be used to insulate a loft. If you intend to leave your insulation exposed, natural insulation or insulation board is advised because there are no glass or mineral wool fibres to itch individuals in the loft. Natural insulating wrap is also made from recycled and sustainable resources, making it more eco-friendly and ideal for eco-homes and lowering carbon emissions.
Insulating a loft with insulation board or insulation slab allows for simple and quick installation because it can be friction-fit into timbers. In a pitched roof, you can set timber joists at 400mm or 600mm apart so that when you cut insulation board to size, you can push it into place before anchoring it with netting. This can be accomplished with an insulation slab in the pitch as well as insulation roll in the floor.
When you insulate a loft level, you insulate the ceilings of the rooms below as well. Fit any of the above-mentioned insulating materials into the loft floor, taking care to keep the floor height in mind, before finishing it off with structural grade plywood or OSB board. To lessen impact noise from footfall in the loft, put an acoustic matting layer before the final floor finishings of carpet, etc. to add a layer of acoustic insulation.
What type of insulation should I use to insulate a loft?
Different forms of insulation provide unique benefits and qualities that are appealing to specific projects. In a loft conversion insulation project, for example, insulated plasterboard may be a faster approach to secure thermal insulation while also dry lining the room. A combination of thin insulation board and a layer of multifoil insulation may be the right combination in applications where the insulation must meet severe and specified thermal requirements, for example.
Converting an underused attic into a usable room will boost the value of your home as well as the EPC certificate, which prospective buyers use to determine how energy efficient your home is. There are, however, certain criteria that your home must meet in order for the council to approve it as a legal conversion.
For a pitched roof refurbishment in England, Scotland, and Wales, you must achieve a minimum necessary u-value of 0.18 W/m2K, hence it is advised that you choose components based in part on their thermal conductivity. If you're using Celotex insulation board with a lambda value of 0.022 W/mK, for example, you can add a layer of multifoil insulation or finish the job with insulated plasterboard to get the required u-value.
Please keep in mind that U-values and the thermal performance of your loft conversion are affected by the build-up and any existing insulation materials. If you are doubtful, please consult a professional architect or your local council.
How to Install Insulation in the Loft
Insulating your loft is one of the most cost-effective ways to save your heating expenses while still keeping your house comfortable. Whether you're building a chilly or warm loft, our step-by-step instructions will guide you through the process. This article will walk you through the process of installing loft insulation. If you haven't previously done so and aren't sure where to begin, try our Loft Insulation Buyer's Guide to help you make the best decision. Now is the time to roll up your sleeves and get to work...
Insulate the joists in your loft using insulation.
Insulating the joists with loft rolls is the easiest DIY project for beginners, especially if your attic is accessible. Is rigid insulation board something you're considering? The procedure is identical to that detailed below, but instead of using robust scissors or a knife, you'll need a hacksaw to cut the board to fit. All you need to know is listed here.
Step 1: Prepare the loft space.
Make sure the loft is well-lit so that you may operate safely in there. Once you can see clearly, inspect your joists for any signs of rot or cracking. They won't be safe to walk on if they're damaged, so you'll have to get specialists to fix them.
It's a good idea to clean out the loft and vacuum it to get rid of any dust. Examine the loft for any light fixtures that protrude from the rooms below. If they do, just cover them with downlight caps (also known as downlight covers). These ingenious covers allow air to circulate around the light fitting, preventing it from becoming too hot.
Crawling boards should be inserted between the joists. Loft panels are perfect for this project, and they'll need to span at least three joists to effectively distribute the weight. If you step between the joists, you risk placing your foot through the ceiling of your bedroom or worse, falling through altogether.
Step 2: Calculate how much insulation you'll require.
Grab your tape measure and multiply the width of the floor by the length to calculate the area you'll need to insulate. Then figure out how much space there is between the joists. Finally, take a measurement of the joists' height. You'll need these three numbers before you buy, so write them down.
Step 3. Purchase your insulation.
Choose the sort of loft roll you want, then use the height of the joists to determine the thickness you'll require. If your joists are 100mm high, for example, you'll need to install 100mm thick insulation between them first. Then, after the surface is level, you'll add extra insulation on top to reach the government's suggested thickness of 270mm.
Which of the many widths of loft rolls should you choose? Cutting will be kept to a minimum if you choose the width that is closest in size to the space within your joists. Most joists are either 380mm or 570mm apart, and most loft rolls are designed to accommodate those two dimensions. So, if the distance between your joists is 380mm, choose the roll with the closest width.
Step 4. Take your tools with you.
You'll need an insulation cutter, durable scissors, and safety clothes like overalls, gloves, a mask, and goggles if you're setting down loft rolls. The only exception is if you're using sheep's wool, which isn't irritating to the skin.
Step 5. In between the joists, place the insulation.
When you've finished insulating between the joists, you'll have a lovely 100mm thick layer. It's now time to add extra insulation on top.
Step 6. In between the joists, place the insulation.
Step 7. The loft hatch should be insulated.
According to experts, failing to insulate the loft hatch can result in a loss of up to 5% of a home's heat. You might achieve this by stapling insulating material to the inside of the loft hatch door or using PVA adhesive to secure polystyrene. To make things even cozier, add draught-proof strips to the exterior of the hatch.
Step 8. Insulate the water tank and pipelines.
You run the risk of pipes and tanks freezing in the cold loft above if you insulate the joists. Pipe insulation, which you may trim to fit and tape down, will be required. A tank jacket can be used to insulate coldwater tanks. To select the proper size, measure your tank.
Insulate the Rafters in the Loft
Insulating the rafters (the timber or metal beams that support the roof) is the way to go if you want to build a toasty loft, possibly to store valuable objects or to use as a games area. A warm roof, as pictured on the right, is one with insulation between the roof rafters. This implies that the heat is trapped in the ceiling as well, keeping the area at a comfortable temperature. When the insulation is installed on the loft's floor, it stops heat from transferring into the space, keeping the loft cool.
You'll have to determine whether to insulate between the rafters or underneath them. If you don't care about headroom, insulating beneath them is the simplest option since it eliminates the need to provide a space for moisture to escape. In this tutorial, we'll go through both ways.
Step 1. Begin by clearing the loft.
Install excellent lighting to ensure the place is safe. You'll need to lay down some crawling boards if your loft doesn't have flooring because you'll be moving about a lot. Look for symptoms of decay, mold, or cracking in the rafters and joists. If they're damaged, the area won't be safe to work in, and you'll have to bring in the professionals.
Step 2: Calculate how much rafter insulation you'll require.
Measure from the pinnacle of the roof to the top of the joists using your tape measure, then multiply by the width. You'll also need to measure the distance between the rafters if you're going to lay insulation between the rafters rather than underneath them. You'll only need a few more items after you've purchased the insulation that best meets your needs.
Stage 3. Gather your materials.
You'll need an insulation cutter, scissors, and safety clothes like overalls, gloves, masks, and goggles if you're using wool insulation. Do you intend to use insulating boards? On your shopping list, include a drill, saw, and nail gun. You'll also need a lot of wooden battens if you're insulating between the rafters.
Step 4. Begin insulating under or between the rafters.
Beneath the Rafters
Installing rigid boards or foil insulation beneath the rafters is the simplest way to insulate the roof because you won't have to worry about leaving any gaps for air to circulate. If space is limited, this may not be an option because it would eat into the available headroom.
Plan ahead of time how you'll cover the space with stiff insulation boards, then cut your boards to fit. Fix them to the bottom of the rafters using your nail gun. Then just leave them as is, or cover them with plasterboard if you don't like the unfinished appearance.
It's even easier to use multifoil insulation (although it does provide less thermal insulation). Begin attaching the foil to the bottom of the rafters on one side of the loft, unrolling and stapling as you go. You may either go back on yourself or slide the foil up and down till you've covered the entire space after you've reached the opposite side.
The Space Between the Rafters
Insulating between the rafters is a little trickier since you need to allow a 50mm space between the insulating material and the roof membrane. If you don't do so, you can have condensation since the wet air has nowhere to go. Fix wooden battens to the rafters with a nail gun to ensure there is adequate space.
The depth of your rafters will determine the depth of your insulation. Are you concerned that this won't be enough to keep the loft warm? Fixing wooden extensions might help you attain the 270mm depth that is suggested.
Put on your protective clothes and set out your wool rolls if you wish to insulate with them. Starting at the top and working your way down, staple the insulation to the rafters' sides until the entire area is covered, using the battens as a reference to your 50mm gap. When you're completed, add a layer of netting to keep the fragments from coming off.
Is it possible to use insulating boards? It's a little more difficult than working with wool since you need to be more accurate with your measurements. Cut the planks to fit between the rafters and staple the edges in place.
Condensation in your loft should be avoided.
In both warm and chilly lofts, condensation may be an issue. Water and wood don't mix well, and if left untreated, the timbers will decay. If your loft isn't effectively aired, warm damp air from washing, drying clothing, cooking, and even breathing becomes trapped. When a heated vapour collides with a cold surface, it condenses and forms droplets.
There are various things you may do to help. Because its natural fibres assist to suck away moisture, sheep's wool insulation is an excellent solution for wet situations. Installing a breather membrane between the roof and the rafters, which allows air to flow and reduces the chance of condensation, is another smart alternative. Finally, installing roof ventilation can be a quick but efficient option, similar to opening one of your car's windows when it's misting inside.
