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Insulating A Floor

1st Sep 2022

Insulating A Floor

June 26, 2022 by Renz Andrew

Introduction

Insulating a floor will benefit homeowners the most if the floor is above a cold space. A cold space is any unheated or underutilized area, which can cause buildings to lose a lot of heat quickly. The most prevalent examples are bedrooms above garages and residences with basements or cellars. These types of rooms frequently indicate that the room above it has suspended floors, which can be quite simple to insulate. It is well acknowledged that solid floors, often concrete, are more difficult to insulate and more expensive to insulate. Most homeowners can install their own floor insulation without the assistance of a professional. It is recommended, however, that you use a competent electrician if you need to relocate electric plugs to raise them higher when adding floor insulation.

Floor insulation for suspended floors

To determine whether you have a suspended floor, examine whether there is a void beneath your floorboards and whether the floorboards themselves are resting on joists. If left unaddressed, this void can cause significant heat loss, therefore replacing it with floor insulation such as insulation roll or insulation board can reduce household expenditures while also making your home more comfortable.


When there is a cellar or basement beneath the home, suspended floor insulation is the easiest to install. This should allow easy access to the void beneath the joists so that insulation can be fixed in place using insulation netting, insulation slabs, or insulation board can be friction fit into the joists so that the insulation stays in place, and insulation netting can be rolled out and fixed at each joist for added support. You can limit heat loss through the floor without lifting a single floorboard by pulling the netting taut and packing the insulation securely into the space.

Insulation

Unfortunately, if your home lacks a basement or cellar but the floor is still hanging, floorboards and any floor finishings must be removed. Because emptying a room of furnishings to enable access to the void below is a huge undertaking, we recommend doing it with other big jobs like plastering or painting.


When insulating a floor with access to the joists through a basement or cellar, you must lift the floorboards and place them to one side before putting rigid insulation boards in the joist gaps. Cut each piece of insulation board to be slightly smaller than the joist area you'll be fitting it into; this will give friction for a tight fit, preventing air from escaping through the side gaps.


You can utilize insulation roll, which is similar to popular natural insulation sheep's wool, by installing affordable insulation netting beneath the joists, as seen in the image to the right. Drape the netting as low as necessary to accommodate the thickness of the insulation roll, then roll out the insulation as usual, taking care to ensure that it extends to the width of the joists.


Please keep an eye out for airbricks in the outer walls. If the airbricks are covered, the floorboards will decay because there will be no ventilation! Before the hardcore, these should be at least two inches below the bottom of the insulation.

Insulation Material

Floor insulation for solid floors

Because solid floors are thicker and harder for heat to escape through, they shouldn't require as much insulation as suspended floors. In older buildings, stone floors can be up to 50cm thick! However, some heat can still be lost through these types of flooring, so it's important to consider the pros and cons of a warmer, more efficient floor.

home Insulation

Obviously, you can't remove a solid floor to insulate it, thus the only way to insulate a floor is to layer up. It's a good idea to put a damp proof membrane between the concrete floor and the insulation to keep moisture out. Wet insulation is even inefficient when compared to no insulation at all!


You can reduce echoes and airborne noise in buildings with solid walls and typically roomy interiors, such as ancient churches that need insulating or are being converted, by using specific build-ups with acoustic matting and underlays. Install a 1.2mm thick layer of acoustic barrier mat followed by a 9mm thick layer of acoustic MDF sheet over a solid floor, for example, to reduce airborne noise and echoes while adding only 10.2mm to the floor thickness.


The floor level is an important factor to consider. With at least three layers going on top of the existing solid floor, the height of the interior floor may be impacted, as well as other fixtures and fittings. It may be necessary to cut doors to size and hire an electrician to raise electrical sockets.

Insulation Material

Insulating a concrete floor

Insulation should always be considered when constructing or renovating a new area. Below-grade insulation is always crucial for minimizing moisture, limiting heat loss, and aiding with noise dampening. When it comes to insulating a concrete floor, you have a few options, each with its own set of benefits for keeping your home warm. Insulation Superstore has a comprehensive selection of insulation goods available, all at our well-known low rates.

PIR Boards

celotex PIR boards

PIR boards are one of the most widely used types of insulation. Polyisocyanurate (PIR) boards are typically formed of foam and utilized in the shape of a rigid board. PIR boards are available in a variety of configurations, such as bonded to plywood for use on wooden flat roofs, bonded to OSB board for decking and new flat roofs, and plasterboard for faster insulation in walls.


However, the most common type of PIR board, and one that is especially effective for insulating a concrete floor, is one that is sandwiched between two aluminum foil facings — these give additional levels of insulation for greater heat retention.


PIR boards are also exceedingly simple to install because they can be simply cut and moulded and are relatively lightweight. Consider our selection of PIR boards from Celotex, the UK market leader in high-performance PIR insulation.

Insulation Slabs

insulation slab


Insulation slabs are a more flexible material with excellent insulation qualities that are employed in a variety of applications. Insulation slabs, which are typically solid but easy to cut and lightweight, minimize the amount of heat going through by trapping it within the structure. Insulation slabs are frequently used with concrete floors because they can be simply fitted within a timber framework, which is then installed on top of the concrete floor.


Insulating Superstore carries a variety of insulation slabs from manufacturers such as Rockwool and Knauf. Each manufacturer has employed cutting-edge technology and development to create a product that is high-performing while still being practical and simple to install.


EPS

EPS


Expanded Polystyrene (EPS) is a type of insulation that is made from foam beads. The beads are heated, causing them to expand and join together. This forms a closed-cell structure, which results in a consistent layer of insulation over the whole floor.


EPS is a suitable choice for insulating a concrete floor since it has a long-term R-value as well as a consistent degree of thermal resistance, and it is manufactured in easy-to-manage sheets for easy installation.


Insulation Superstore carries EPS from market leaders in the EPS insulation business, such as Styrene and Jablite.


XPS

XPS


Extruded Polystyrene insulation is a type of insulation produced by the extrusion method. This produces a closed cell structure with a smooth top and bottom surface that prevents water from reaching the insulating board.


XPS is typically seen to be better suited to insulating a concrete floor than EPS because it is more vapour resistant and denser, which gives added stability, but it is also more expensive, therefore those on a budget still choose EPS.


Installation tips for insulating a concrete floor


We always recommend placing a damp proof membrane between the solid floor and the insulation when insulating a concrete floor. When insulation becomes moist, its insulating properties are dramatically reduced, which can cause problems, but it can also do additional harm to your property.


Insulation can be either above or below the concrete when installed on a concrete floor.

Insulation Above A ConcreteFloor


When working on a remodeling project, installing insulation above the concrete floor is advantageous since it may be placed onto the floor without necessitating excavation and relaying of the floor. Furthermore, insulation above a concrete floor will help the room warm up faster, but it will also cool down faster.


The most popular way of placing insulation on top of a concrete floor is as follows. Install the damp proof membrane first, followed by the insulation. Then, to complete, place moisture-resistant chipboard or a concrete screed on top, which will be covered by the flooring.


floor insulation

Insulation Below a Concrete Floor

In general, insulating concrete beneath the concrete floor is the preferred form of installation if possible. This is due to the concrete's ability to absorb heat more effectively while simultaneously keeping the room from overheating.


The most popular method of placing insulation beneath the concrete floor entails the following steps. To begin, there is a layer of filler, such as sand, over the surface to prevent anything from puncturing the following layer. Then, over the sand, place a moisture proof membrane to make an airtight membrane. The subsequent phase is to lay insulation, after which concrete can be laid. Finally, the flooring can be installed.

floor insulation

How to lay underfloor heating


Underfloor heating is becoming increasingly popular in the United Kingdom. Its steady expansion in recent years has contributed to its growing significance in the heating sector. Underfloor heating is being implemented in more home properties than ever before as a cost-effective and economical solution to indoor heating needs, both in new builds and as a retrofitted system. If you want to install a system for yourself or on behalf of a customer, you need know how to lay underfloor heating.


The Different Types Of Underfloor Heating

When it comes to installing underfloor heating, you will typically be given two options: wet (hydronic) and dry (electric). Both may be utilized with many types of flooring, but each has its own set of advantages and limitations. Wet systems provide heat by pouring warm water through pipes beneath your floor, and dry systems employ mats with electric coils.
 underfloor heating

Don’t choose a wet system if you are not able to raise your flooring to accommodate it.


The main advantage of employing a wet underfloor heating system over radiators is the cheaper operating cost due to the lower temperature required to perform properly. They are, however, more complex to install and hence may have greater initial expenses. Electric underfloor heating systems are ideal for smaller areas because they are easier to install but often more expensive to operate. It also rarely necessitates the lifting of the flooring, making it a preferable choice for retrofitting existing houses.


How To Lay Underfloor Heating

1. Pull up the flooring and clean the subfloor

If you're retrofitting, the first step is to raise the floors and make sure the subfloor is clear. Remove the nails from the floorboards if the flooring was laid with a tongue-and-groove system. Begin with the boards that are closest to the wall. To preserve the remaining boards from damage, use the subfloor as a lever for your crowbar. You should be able to pry up an end board before removing the entire floor in one piece if you have a click mechanism. Then, from the list below, unclick the individual boards.

Next, make sure the subfloor is free of any debris that could harm your heating system. Simply file or cut away any sharp edges in the region to ensure that the pipes are not damaged once installed. In many cases, a damp proof membrane must be installed on top of the subfloor.

2. Lay the insulation and install the manifold

First, lay your underfloor heating insulation, making sure there are no significant gaps. Place the insulation as neatly as possible and tape the joints to keep screed from getting below. If you are installing a wet system, the pipe fixing system should be installed on top of the insulation at a 90-degree angle to the path of the pipes.

In a wet system, the next step is to install the manifold, to which your pipes will be attached. When linked to the water pipes, the manifold should be installed on a wall that is robust enough to sustain its weight. Place it in the center of the room, about 1 metre above the ground.

underfloor heating insulation

3. Lay the water pipes or electric heating mats

In a wet system, the water pipes should be installed after the manifold has been installed. Follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for your heating system. Additionally, ensure that the pipes are uniformly distributed across the full area that you need to heat. Allow roughly 200mm between each length of piping that runs from the manifold to the farthest point in the room. The system should be connected to the water mains by a trained plumber.

The heating mats should be quite easy to install in dry systems. Again, follow the manufacturer's directions for securing them in place, and make sure they're evenly distributed over the room. You will also need to install a floor sensor to send a temperature reading to your thermostat; ideally, this should be situated near the wall where the thermostat is installed. The system should be connected to the electrical mains by a trained electrician.

4. Cover the heating system in a layer of screed

Screed is commonly used in both wet and dry underfloor heating systems. This helps to insulate the heat while also boosting the system's performance. To begin, ensure that the insulation is flat and that the pipes or mats are securely fastened. Then, on top of the pipes or matting, apply a 75mm thick sand and cement screed. Allow the screed to cure naturally before turning on the heating system; otherwise, it may be damaged. This procedure should not take more than seven days.

5. Warm the system up slowly

Before using your underfloor heating system, switch it on at low temperatures to test it. There should be no issues as long as everything is properly linked and the screed is allowed to cure. Turning the system up to full heat right once, on the other hand, might cause damage, thus it should be increased gradually the first time.
underfloor heating

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